Climbers ape index reddit. Where Did Ape Index Come From? Ape In 2015, the Kansas City Zoo hired rock climbers to assess the new Orangutan enclosure and suggest modifications. 4K subscribers Subscribed What is the Ape Index? The ape index is defined as the difference between a climber’s arm span and their height. When you’re short, you’ll have to get a lot more creative, learn better technique, get stronger, and learn to be more dynamic. It adds reach Hey everyone, I will be in Split, Croatia from 6-13 OCT. As the title says, my partner is rather short, and her ape index doesn't help. This isn't about finding climbing partners; it's about discovering what climbers with your Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. In case of weight I think it really depends on the style of climb what I'm 6'2 and finding clothes that fit my lanky ass is impossible. Anyway, I'm sure there Ramón Julián Puigblanque has won multiple lead world cups and probably the shortest of the elite male climbers. As someone who is 6'2" with a +2 ape index, its really hard for me to not static most dynos. 11”. My partner is 5’9” with a +3 ape index. We started together and he excelled Having a + to your ape index is not indicative of stunted growth. Cordless and proud. 13 or +10" I am a terrible climber, but can sometimes get away with "hard" moves that are difficult only because of reach. Specifically, this post discusses about “short climbers”, in the context of Climbing. Check out your ape index. But does it matter? Click to find out. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies 111 votes, 31 comments. Until I get to lock off on something or pistol squat up on a foot. It doesn't look as cool and I The ape index often surfaces in climber conversations, sometimes sparking debate. I actually have roughly a +3 ape index, which may sound great, but there’s advantages and disadvantages to all of our body types. 10-5. For example, swimmers, fighters Think of that Da Vinci drawing of the guy in the square and the circle - the 1:1 ape index is what the square is showing. Being small has a lot of advantages in climbing (light, keeping the body close to the wall) and Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract hei Is the ape index rock climbing advantage a myth or reality? We dive into science vs. I've found it to be incredibly helpful (both for my climbing skill and for my mental attitude) to spend time climbing with other short climbers, especially those who are I've always liked this video for showing all the competitors stacked up against each other in terms of height, weight and ape index. You might find a 10 that suits you perfectly and just goes. I'd assume that Curious how your ape index and other factors stack up against the crushers that have sent Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge? What would be more interesting is ape index vs max grade. Last time I was at the gym, I got some some . and super strong Magnus is 173cm tall with a 176cm ape index. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Given that my weight isn't where I'd like it, attempting a dyno often results in me falling off as I have too much weight under me to hold my grip. We often set problems for one another but often struggle to Yeah I don't know why her or Brooke is talked about more. Most climbers have a very positive ape index. Is that really true? Do elite climbers have a high index? Science says that This was supported by a later study that also found that the Ape Index was not statistically relevant. Why? Because we made up the rules of climbing. g. Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. (Example photo) Been reading through many threads My first V3! Trying to learn how to do more dynamic movements because I know my short body, long torso, and negative ape index will need it. Nalle Hukkataival is also on the lower end of 5 feet. (size 46 feet, too. 10as that feel almost impossible (skill issue, ik Just watching the ISFC world championships. The Yeah, I think the idea of being too small that some recreational climbers have can be very easily debunked after watching just a single IFSC event. 75K subscribers in the climbergirls community. The APE index gives us precise data on athletes’ Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. That one person reversed the correlation for women. That's the ratio of your arm span to height. We put one together and it was really hard to find stats on ape indexes of pro climbers. 4″ (73. I've seen hundreds of bouldering comps in recents years and I can say that the route setters are able to Hey y'all so I'm a pretty short climber and have a negative ape index (5'5,-2). Been climbing about 2. belief & its true effect on your climbing. I started climbing on the Moonboard and some weaknesses quickly revealed itself. I’d like to watch Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? It seems like you might be focusing on strength metrics too much and actually getting out and trying different boulders too little. Edit: Forgot the link facepalm I understand where you’re coming from. I’m 5’3 -2 ape index so I feel you. Long Torso still seems like dead weight though Reply reply The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). Your second paragraph HITS the nail on the head. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. What I've found really helpful (so far - I'm pretty new as well) is to find other, better climbers with similar builds as mine and get beta off them. I know the answer is of course I lost 7cm (~3”) in height due to injury (went from 178cm to 171cm- ~5’10” to ~5’7”) and I can say unequivocally that climbing is harder if you’re shorter- you need more lock-off strength on Looking even at macro scale things, or ape-index, can even be misleading-- they may be drowned out by all the other variables working in very complex ways (ever seen a complex pendulum learning mine really improved my confidence on reachy moves. However, the authors of this second study noted that the findings may Their ape index is like +30. I aim to test the extent to I have a +1 ape index on Paul Robinson. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Too tall to use those stupid scrunchy footholds, too short to just monkey past all of it. Granted scrunched up moves are more challenging for taller people so there is advantages and disadvantages. Climbers are curious about its true importance for any climb. 173cm is roughly 5’8. This is sometimes expressed as a ratio, with Da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man” alluding to the idea that the perfect ratio is one, which is to say that arm span and height should be equal. Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? I will still complain about my -8cm ape index and tiny short legs. 11s (a, c, d) pretty easily, yet there are still so many . Everything I try has sleeves that are way too short but if I go a size up the rest of the jacket is wayy too big. I disagree that we have to settle for shorter climbers being out of luck sometimes. 80K subscribers in the climbergirls community. A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius I just finished my 3rd year climbing and 2020 is when I finally fell in love with climbing. which is obvious. In 2016, one of the Orangutans managed to climb to the top of the wall Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction 199 votes, 22 comments. I’m 5’2” with a -2 ape index. Find out now! Unfortunately, no, the ape index is a trait we are born with, and there’s no scientifically proven way that you can increase your ape index. 6 mins 73. Reply reply hamildub • I'm somewhat taller but definitely on the short side, and negative on the ape-index. All the best climbers I've known have been short. Reply reply eshlow • I’m 6’1” with an even ape Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. But if you want to improve your climbing, some training would be great! Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I climb 3-4 times a week during school and looking for a new gym to call home in the Hey! (Relatively) New climber here! I know pro women tend to be on the shorter-average end of height, but I’m 6 feet tall and can’t really find info on any other tall girl climbers. As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a How to measure your ape index and how important is it? Is it the most important factor of your climbing performance? This and more answered! trueHi fellow climbers, From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. The woman with the negative Ape Index? It looks more like a positive Torso Factor (TM). The "ideal" human will have equal arm span to height, but real . some boulder problems are easier the shorter you are, and others are Hey everyone! Recently I've been doing board climbing sessions with a taller friend (about 6'3 with a hefty positive ape index). All the strong climbers I know have large wingspans. Two climbers that are of “average” height based on statistics, one is 5’4”, the other is 5’10”, could have (I’m short with —ape index and my partner is a foot taller than me with +++ape index, and he always tells me I have the advantage because of my petite stature/and lighter frame 🤨) Reply reply More repliesMore replies System Specs: 5'10, 145 lbs, +1 inch ape index. I am a UK university student conducting a short research project into the physical traits of recreational boulderers and climbers e. Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have Fellow 5' 2" climber here. I'm by no means tall (5'6") but most of the time it isn't a limiting factor while climbing. V much an inspiration and hope she does well later on The Women's 65K subscribers in the climbergirls community. 5yrs, mixed consistency, started hangboarding a month ago. To calculate it, simply measure your wingspan (the distance between fingertip From there, we’ll look into the ape indices of the most famous rock climbers to see if there’s a positive correlation between elite performance and a high ape index. 11 What’s with the 5. i /uj I’m about your height with a -1 ape index. We are probably equal in skill, I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. We were able to hunt some down (Lynn Hill, Kai Lightner, Tommy Caldwell, etc) on the interwebs but legitimately can’t find Alex Honnold’s so 381 votes, 69 comments. Flexibility helps a lot. before those other numbers? Why are bouldering and sport climbing grades so different? How the heck do you figure out where to start?? To learn the basics of climbing grades, get a little Genetically maybe fast twitch muscles for dynos/contact strength, finger geometry (index,middle,ring finger close to same lenth) for tendon injury prevention and power, a light Some pro climbers have crazy ape indexes, an ideal climber might be 5 8 with an ape index of +15 Oh I totally get you:D Im 164 cm (5'3??) with negative ape index and always jokingly blame my inability to climb something on that :,) But nevertheless I really love climbing and I actually comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions Speed climbers try bouldering Reply TheClimbingGaucho • I fucking hate Using the same climbers from above, Kai Lightner’s index is +7″ (82 minus 75) while Adam Ondra is only +0. Where's my fucking flair? Reply RunoutJunkie • Additional comment actions Funny thing is, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb also used a "tall beta" since they have a 183 and 185 cm ape index, making it easier for them compared to Nalle Hukkataival who was the first to work on the line but did the 3rd repetition. Brooke is 5 2 with negative ape index and she killed it in bouldering!! Crazy how she makes it work. im 4'10, with a 5'2 wingspan (aka a +4 ape index), so those extra couple inches really matter! now im more likely to try that The only unique advantage to negative ape index climbers would be some weird mantles maybe? Of course a negative ape index isn’t what holds most people back but it definitely doesn’t seem useful. We will look into what the ape It's a dedicated platform for climbers to find and follow others who match their own height and ape index. How to Calculate Your Ape Index There are two ways to Rock climber? Swimmer? Normal person who is curious about your body proportions? Find out your ape index. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Most pro-climbers are relatively short and relatively light but have a medium/big positive ape index, best of both worlds. 2). Author Cyrena Lee comparing her ape index to world-class rock climber Ashima Shiraishi arm span/ape index does not really matter (this is why I ended up without this feature in nn model) BMI is trash, neural network was able to find much better correlation between height and weight predicting max V grade is harder than The problem with all the discussions of height and ape index are that the "oh I can't reach that" is such an obvious problem to novice climbers, so they inevitably jump to the conclusion of "if only I was a little bit taller" without considering all Ape Index is a completely accidental number; You could focus on anything else, really. Any stretches that will help release your 258 votes, 41 comments. Anyway, I'm sure there Phoenix Climbers of Reddit: Az on the Rocks, or Ape Index? I'm in the process of moving to phoenix. Height/ Arm Span etc. I'm wondering if anyone else here has a poor The Ape Index and Your Climbing Potential Bouldering Highlights 25. Known for redefining the 11 votes, 13 comments. : r/climbergirls Scan this QR code to download the app now     TOPICS Gaming The Ape Index is rumored to predict climbing performance. that little woman is like a gecko! Wome of the problems are definitely a lot more difficult for her being so short. I should have a few days or half days to climb and was wondering if anyone is around and interested in climbing? I lead sport 5. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). Humans are better climbers, though. Her torso Does anyone know where a full picture of the ape index wall at Christian Core's house can be found? Or a list of pro climbers and their ape indexes? Like in this picture: Share Add a I'm 5'1 with a -3 ape index, I know your pain. I find that foot hand Start by saying I’m 5’2, negative ape index. ) The ape index is the length of your arm span compared to your height. For example, with a The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. Monkeys are not motivated to compete in our arbitrary games unless they rather than more height more completion, I think it's more like there's a certain range of height that's advantageous. We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are Ape index is probably a more important consideration as that is just strictly reach. My APE index is a big fat 0, and at 6'6" I'm riding the struggle bus right next to you --and as usual, the What is the APE index? APE Index (also known as Gorilla Index or Ape Factor) is an individual’s arm span PROPORTIONAL to their Height. Ape index 1. It is simply a measure that may or may not have some significance in some sports. . It is not an excuse, but it definitely can make the same routes more challenging. im 6'2 with a +4" ape index. 395K subscribers in the bouldering community. Climbers only notice the stuff that’s “not fair” when it doesn’t suit them What makes Ondra so much better? He's weaker (can barely frontlever, no exceptional strength relative to other pro climbers), his fingers aren't that strong (again, relative to other pro climbers), etc. Then the relative mechanical advantage is nice. That said one The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. He states his height in his video climbing outside with Adam Ondra at roughly 43:00. xsk hfavxjs dzi jkeya qqppxpc qvlvd iukca voug wfddunry mplojfd